
Biotechnology is considered the new era of innovation and sustainability in the cosmetics and personal care industry. It is opening a whole new world of possibilities, allowing for the creation
of more effective and targeted active ingredients. With a growing emphasis on natural and sustainable products, but with demand for natural ingredients exceeding supply, biotechnology
is the solution to create innovative and effective active ingredients while minimizing the impact on the environment. 1
Among the remarkable compounds that manufacturers produce with biotechnology are Extremolytes. In nature, these resilience boosters are found in extremophilic microorganisms, so called Extremophiles.

New Blue Spring, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, USA.
Extremolytes: How to Survive in Extreme Environments
Extremophiles are a wild bunch, boldly living on the edge. Belonging to the smallest and most ancient forms of life on earth, these primeval creatures have developed survival and protection
strategies tried and tested over millions of years. Extremophiles are so-called because they thrive in the most hostile environments one can imagine – so intensely hot, cold, salty, acidic, alkaline, pressurized, dry, radioactive, or barren that other creatures could not survive for a second.
Scientists like Thomas Brock discovered different types of extremophiles over the past 50 years. Brock, a famous professor of microbial ecology, found microbial biomass in the hot springs of
Yellowstone National Park in 1964 after having observed distinct color patterns. 2 The colors formed a unique band in the water, the result of microbial colonies present in water reaching temperatures as high as 80 °C. Brock called them “hyperthermophiles” (extreme heat lovers).
The discovery of the first extremophiles prompted scientists to explore the mechanisms that enable microbes to survive in such extreme environments. Subsequently, other microbes were discovered that lived in different types of harsh environments: very cold (psychrophiles), acidic (acidophiles), alkaline (alkaliphiles), salty (halophiles), high pressure (piezophiles/barophiles), heavy metal-concentrated (metalophiles) and sunlight-deprived environments.

Salt Ponds at Camargue, France.
Some microbes are adapted to survive more than one type of extreme environment. Hot springs, for example, are not only incredibly warm, but can also be highly acidic or alkaline, whereas the deep sea features both extreme cold and high pressure.
Microbes that have adapted to live in these environments have developed ways to thrive under multiple prominent stressors.
The discovery of extremophiles changed scientists’ way of looking at life, as the microbes were found in environments where nobody expected life to survive, let alone thrive. Studies on extremophiles have since reshaped some of our ideas on the origin, fundamental features and limits of life. Extremophiles also help unravel how metabolism can be altered by living cells when faced with adverse conditions.
But what enables life to sustain itself in such extreme conditions?
Extremophilic microbes accumulate special biomolecules that are impressively stable in extreme conditions like high temperature or high salt concentrations and enable metabolic reactions to proceed unhindered, helping the organisms retain their cellular integrity and maintain proper cellular functions. These biomolecules – osmolytes from extremophiles – are called “Extremolytes”.
While research and science had been dealing with extremophiles for some time, relatively little or hardly anything was known back then about their protective substances, the Extremolytes. For example, Ectoin, an Extremolyte of halophiles, was not discovered until 1985 by Professor Erwin Galinksi, a German Professor for Biochemistry and Biotechnology.3

Extremolytes are a group of heterogenic substances including sugars, polyols, amino acids and their derivatives. However, as different as the individual Extremolytes are, they have some basic commonalities: they are polar and highly soluble in water. In the past years, Extremolytes, particularly Ectoin, an amino acid derivate, became well-established active ingredients thanks to their special characteristics and benefits for skin.
The History of Extremolytes in Cosmetics
Although biotechnology has only been perceived as the new revolution in skincare for a few years4, 5, the story of biotech based Extremolytes in cosmetics began already 30 years ago with research conducted by German biotech company bitop. Founded in 1993 and headquartered in Dortmund, the university spin-off started its journey by researching extremophilic organisms and the potential application of Extremolytes. During the late 1990s and early 2000s, bitop’s scientists successfully isolated and identified several Extremolytes with outstanding protective properties. These natural compounds exhibited the ability to combat oxidative stress, dehydration, and other harmful effects on cells and biomolecules.

Due to extensive research and testing, bitop was able to develop innovative and effective skincare actives and medical devices with Extremolytes. In 2005, the first Extremolyte lab-grown active Ectoin® natural (INCI: Ectoin) was launched. Ectoin is an Extremolyte derived from halophilic microorganisms and is produced with fermentation. It quickly gained recognition for its outstanding water-binding capacity and its ability to form a protective barrier around cells (see figure 5), shielding them from environmental stress factors like UV radiation, pollution and blue light.1 Furthermore, Ectoin reduces inflammation and redness, and improves skin texture, making it a multifunctional and sought-after active for anti-aging and skin-soothing products.

Building upon the success of Ectoin, bitop continued its research and development efforts and discovered another Extremolyte for the use as an active in skin care – Glycoin® natural (INCI: Glyceryl Glucoside, Water). In nature, the molecule is produced by the fascinating desert plant “Myrothamnus flabellifolia”, also known as resurrection plant.6,7 During dry season, the plant experiences almost complete desiccation. In this state, it appears lifeless with shriveled and brown leaves (see figure 6). However, the true magic of this plant lies in its ability to “resurrect” itself when the rainy season arrives. As soon as water becomes available, the resurrection plant rapidly rehydrates, undergoing an impressive transformation within hours: the leaves unfurl and the plant regains its vibrant green color. The reason for this miracle of nature is Glyceryl Glucoside. Inspired by the resurrection plant, bitop produces Glyceryl Glucoside with an enzymatic reaction, showcasing the benefits known from Myrothamnus flabellifolia for human skin.

Ectoin and Glyceryl Glucoside – Lab Grown Allrounders for Skin Care
Over the course of many years, numerous in vivo, ex vivo and in vitro studies have revealed the power that the Extremolytes Ectoin and Glyceryl Glucoside hold.
The hydrophilic amino acid derivative Ectoin forms a protective barrier with water on the skin, stabilizing the lipid bilayer of the membrane and enhancing its fluidity. Consequently, cellular activity is increased, leading to improved self-defense and repair mechanism. Another crucial benefit of the “Ectoin Hydro Complex” is its ability to protect from stress factors, effectively reducing oxidative stress, cellular damage and inflammatory gene expression.
As a cosmetic active ingredient, the Extremolyte Ectoin offers multiple proven benefits for the skin with protective (anti-pollution, UV, blue light), anti-aging, and soothing properties. Its ability to support the skin’s natural defense mechanisms and to provide long-lasting hydration makes it an excellent choice for various skincare applications, helping to achieve healthier and more radiant skin (see figure 7).
Glyceryl Glucoside, the other powerful Extremolyte for cosmetics, exhibits remarkable osmotic and volumetric properties, providing several essential benefits to the skin. It enhances hydration levels and facilitates a greater separation between membranes. Moreover, it reduces lateral stress on the membranes, contributing to their overall stability. Another advantage is that the membrane remains in the fluid phase even at low hydration status.8
The powerful cell-boosting Extremolyte Glyceryl Glucoside has been proven to be a multifunctional asset for skin health. Through its rejuvenating properties, it enhances skin thickness and density, stimulates renewal, and brings vitality to aging cells. Its outstanding anti-aging efficacy, along with its capacity for instant and long-lasting cutaneous hydration, sets the stage for radiant skin. Moreover, Glyceryl Glucoside’s prebiotic microbiome support and its ability to protect against blue light damage add to its significance in achieving and maintaining skin health (see figure 8).
Conclusion

The convergence of biotechnology and cosmetic science has paved the way for revolutionary advancements in skincare. Extremolytes, the resilient molecules found in extreme environments, showcase nature’s ability to adapt and thrive in the harshest conditions. Biotechnologically produced Extremolytes like Ectoin and Glyceryl Glucoside have become cornerstones of advanced cosmetic formulations, offering consumers effective, multifunctional and sustainable solutions to maintain healthy and youthful skin. By embracing biotechnology, the cosmetic industry moves one step closer to fulfilling the growing demand for sustainable and nature-inspired skincare solutions.
Lipid bilayer
(normal hydration)
Lipid bilayer
(low hydration)
Lipid bilayer with Glyceryl Glucoside (low hydration)



Figure 8: The lipid bilayer at normal hydration, at low hydration and at low hydration with Glyceryl Glucoside.
Literature
- Bünger, J., Degwert, J., & Driller, H. (2001). The protective function of compatible solute ectoin on the skin, skin cells and its biomolecules with respect to UV radiation, immunosuppression and membrane damage. IFSCC Mag, 4, 127-131.
- Brock, T. D. (1997). The value of basic research: discovery of Thermus aquaticus and other extreme thermophiles. Genetics, 146(4), 1207.
- Schuh, W., Puff, H., Galinski, E. A., & Truper, H. G. (1985). THE CRYSTAL-STRUCTURE OF ECTOINE, A NOVEL AMINO-ACID OF POTENTIAL OSMOREGULATORY FUNCTION. ZEITSCHRIFT FÜR NATURFORSCHUNG CA JOURNAL OF BIOSCIENCES, 40(11-12), 780-784.
- Biotechnology is revolutionising skincare as we know it. https://www.voguescandinavia.com/articles/skincare-biotechnology (Accessed on December 1, 2023).
- Why the “Biotech Boom” Has Potential to Spur Real Change in the Beauty Industry. https://www.byrdie.com/biotechnology-in-beauty-7372130 (Accessed on December 1, 2023).
- Bianchi, G., Gamba, A., Limiroli, R., Pozzi, N., Elster, R., Salamini, F., & Bartels, D. (1993). The unusual sugar composition in leaves of the resurrection plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia. Physiologia Plantarum, 87(2), 223-226.
- Farrant, J. M., & Kruger, L. A. (2001). Longevity of dry Myrothamnus flabellifolius in simulated field conditions. Plant Growth Regulation, 35, 109-120.
- Bryant, G., Koster, K. L., & Wolfe, J. (2001). Membrane behaviour in seeds and other systems at low water content: the various effects of solutes. Seed Science Research, 11(1), 17-25.