We talked with Ilona Gille, Head of Product at Activ’Inside about the launch of Hair’Inside™ an innovative hair revitalizer for hair strength, shine and growth
EURO COSMETICS:
Can you briefly tell us about the concept of Activ’Inside and your expertise?
Ilona Gille:
Activ’Inside is a leading producer of high-quality food supplements with a focus on neuronutrition, nutricosmetics, and active ageing. We excel in botanical extracts by blending traditional knowledge with innovative scientific methods, supported by patents and extensive clinical and preclinical studies. Our expertise ensures the efficacy and safety of our ingredients, guided by our core value, “Science inside, claims outside,” which emphasizes scientifically validated benefits with distinctive and well-substantiated claims.
Our company consists of two main divisions: one specializing in the development of effective botanical ingredients, and Activ’Inside Manufacturing, which provides a comprehensive approach to food supplement production. This 360-degree service ensures excellence, transparency, and adaptability to market demands, making Activ’Inside a trusted partner in the botanical extracts and nutraceutical industries.
EURO COSMETICS:
What is Hair’inside?
Ilona Gille:
Hair’inside™ is a patent-pending hair revitalizer designed to enhance hair growth, strength, and shine using natural ingredients: green tea, bamboo and selenium. Rich in active molecules such as polyphenols or silica, known to have positive effects on blood circulation and connective tissue structure respectively, this innovative formula addresses hair health by improving hair nourishment and structure. Indeed, in vitro, Hair’inside™ demonstrated a synergistic ability to inhibit reactive oxygen species, responsible for hair degradation. In addition, the formula supports the proliferation of dermal papilla cells, cells bringing the nutrients to the hair follicles, which contributes to its benefits for hair strength and growth.
Its effectiveness has been validated in a real-world study under dermatological control performed on 40 women with poor hair condition, supplemented with 280mg of Hair’inside™ for 3 months repetition.
Impressive results were observed after just one month and 93% of women reported satisfaction after three months of use, with over 90% reporting benefits on hair growth, strength, shine, density and overall beauty. 88% of women also perceived an improvement of nail growth and hardness. Compared with competitor products already tested, over 90% of women found Hair’inside™ faster and more effective.
Additionally, Hair’inside™ holds EFSA claims and beauty claims for both hair and nail enhancement that allow it to stand out on packaging and make its benefits easily understandable.
EURO COSMETICS:
And how did you develop this and why?
Ilona Gille:
We developed Hair’inside™ to directly respond to prevalent consumer concerns in the hair care supplement market, driven by issues such as hair loss, weak strands, and dullness. Consumer expectations were a key factor in the development process. To ensure our product met real consumer needs, we conducted a real-world study that revealed 79% of people seeking hair supplements prioritize products that promote strength and growth, while 69% are looking for supplements to enhance overall hair beauty. Another 55% aim for noticeable shine in their hair. These insights underscored the need for a product that addresses multiple aspects of hair health, as consumers are no longer just interested in combating hair loss but are increasingly focused on overall hair appearance and strength.
We also noted that consumers are becoming more discerning in their choices, seeking products that are backed by scientific research, made with natural ingredients, and free from synthetic additives. In fact, 43% of consumers favor brands that offer transparency regarding ingredients and scientific validation.
Our experts focused on the current offer in terms of hair food supplements and found noticeable gaps in the market. We observed that the market lacked innovation, relied heavily on synthetic ingredients, and offered limited solutions for enhancing hair shine and growth, focusing primarily on hair loss prevention. This trend toward cleaner, natural formulations with proven efficacy and the need for natural solution for hair growth, strength and shine strongly influenced our approach to developing Hair’inside™.
Our research team conducted a thorough investigation into the hair growth cycle, which consists of four main phases: anagen (growth), catagen (regression), telogen (resting), and exogen (shedding), Fig 1. While 9% of hair follicles reside in telogen at any time, a variety of factors promote anagen to telogen transition, including inflammation, hormones, stress, nutritional deficiency, poor sleep quality, and cellular division inhibiting medication, leading to hair loss and reduced hair vitality. Conversely, increased blood flow for example, promotes telogen to anagen transition and subsequent hair growth (1)
Understanding these mechanisms allowed us to focus on promoting the transition from the resting phase back to the growth phase, which is crucial for improving hair strength and density.
Our R&D experts have screened the literature to identify ingredients with proven benefits for hair health. We found that while there were few studies supporting the efficacy of botanical ingredients, certain plants showed potential in addressing issues related to hair shine, strength, and growth. As a result, we focused on ingredients like green tea, bamboo, and selenium, each of which addresses different mechanisms involved in promoting hair health. For example, green tea, rich in polyphenols, can significantly improve blood flow, involved in hair growth mechanisms.
The resulting innovative formulation, Hair’inside™, is patent-pending thanks to the synergy discovered between its ingredients. In fact, we have investigated its mechanisms of action in vitro and have demonstrated a synergistic antioxidant action as well as an action on dermal papilla cells, which regulate hair growth and strength. We also validated its effectiveness and safety on women supplemented with Hair’inside™ for 3 months.
This approach allowed us to create more comprehensive and effective solutions for improving overall hair vitality.
EURO COSMETICS:
In the formulation, your key actives are Green Tea, Bamboo and Selenium – why did you choose these particular ingredients?
Ilona Gille:
We selected Green Tea, Bamboo, and Selenium for our formulation based on their scientifically proven benefits for hair health:
Green Tea: Rich in polyphenols, Green Tea offers powerful antioxidant properties that may help protect hair from oxidative stress. It also enhances microcirculation, improving blood flow and oxygen delivery to hair cells. A clinical study shows that a dose equivalent to 250mg of Green Tea extract can boost these processes, contributing to better hair nutrition and overall health.
Bamboo: Bamboo is rich in silica which is vital for maintaining the health of hair, skin, and nails. Silica plays a crucial role in collagen formation, which supports the strength and elasticity of hair.
Selenium yeast: Selenium is a key component of selenoproteins that protect cells, including hair follicles, from oxidative damage. It also supports the structure and growth of hair.
These ingredients were chosen for their combined ability to enhance hair growth, strength, and shine through their unique properties and proven effects.
EURO COSMETICS:
In your studies you showed that Hair’Inside™ reduces oxidative stress. Why is this important in the production and maintenance of hair quality and growth? What are the determining factors?
Ilona Gille:
Oxidative stress can negatively impact hair health, leading to conditions like premature aging, reduced hair growth, and hair loss. It occurs when the balance between free radicals and antioxidants is disrupted, leading to potential damage to cells and tissues, including those in the hair follicles. Indeed, hair follicles are highly sensitive to oxidative stress due to their rapid cell turnover but also to their exposure to various environmental factors like UV radiation, pollution, chemicals, poor nutrition or smoking. This phenomenon can disrupt the normal hair growth cycle and damage proteins, particularly keratin, which can also lead to hair weakening, increased porosity and greater brittleness, making hair brittle and dull.
In our study, we measured the Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) of Hair’Inside™. This test measures the antioxidant capacity of a substance by assessing its ability to neutralize free radicals in vitro, and is widely used to evaluate the efficacy of foods, supplements, and compounds in inhibiting oxidative processes that can lead to cellular damage. Green tea is renowned for its antioxidant properties and has already been shown to inhibit reactive oxygen species (ROS) in vitro. Consistent with that, we demonstrated that green tea possesses significant strong antioxidant capacity in the ORAC test, unlike bamboo extract and selenium when tested alone. Very interestingly, we have shown that the combination of green tea, bamboo and selenium significantly increases the antioxidant effectiveness of green tea, highlighting the synergistic effect associated with Hair’inside™ combination on the antioxidant capacity. This synergistic action may help protect hair follicles from oxidative damage, supporting healthier hair growth and quality.
EURO COSMETICS:
How does an increase in dermal papilla cells improve hair growth? How is this key to Hair’Inside™ performance?
Ilona Gille:
An increase in dermal papilla (DP) cells can significantly improve hair growth due to their crucial role in regulating the hair follicle cycle and promoting hair follicle development. Dermal papilla cells, located at the base of the hair follicle, interact with surrounding epithelial cells and hair follicle stem cells to stimulate and guide hair growth. Due to this proximity, DP cells communicate with the stem cells of the hair follicle by releasing growth factors and molecular signals essential to the regulation of the hair growth cycle. More DP cells mean stronger and more sustained signals to these stem cells, leading to more robust hair growth. DP cells also have the role of ensuring that hair follicles receive adequate blood supply, nutrients and oxygen to support their growth. An increase in DP cells can promote better circulation around the hair follicle, which promotes more vigorous hair growth. Finally, dermal papilla cells also play a crucial role in controlling the hair growth cycle, influencing the duration of each phase.
An increase in DP cell number or activity can enhance the signals that trigger the transition from the resting to the active growth phase, potentially promoting the development of new hair. This is why we measured the ability of Hair’inside™ to stimulate the proliferation of dermal papilla cells in vitro. To do this, primary cultures isolated from the dermis of the human scalp were placed in contact with or without Hair’inside™ for 48 hours. We have shown that after this period, our formula significantly increases cell number compared to the untreated condition, improving cell density by 23%. This increase highlights its potential to enhance hair growth and regeneration, making Hair’Inside™ a valuable formula for promoting healthier, more robust hair.
EURO COSMETICS:
Can you share more information on your volunteer study – the findings within one month of treatment are very interesting?
Ilona Gille:
The findings within the first month of treatment with Hair’inside™ are satisfactorily positive. In our real-world study, we supplemented 40 women with Hair’inside™ over three months, with the primary goal of evaluating both its efficacy and consumer satisfaction.
After just one month, we observed that 85% of participants already reported significant improvements in hair growth, shine, strength, and overall beauty. What’s particularly striking is the increasing efficacy noted as the treatment continued. By the end of the three-month period, over 90% of the participants confirmed these improvements, with nearly 90% also noticing enhanced nail growth and hardness.
The rapid action of Hair’inside™ stood out as a key finding: 86% of women reported perceiving fast results, and 92% found it acted faster than similar products they had used previously. This increasing efficacy over time, combined with rapid results, contributed to a high satisfaction rate of 93%.
By the study’s conclusion, 90% of the women expressed their intention to purchase the product, and 93% said they would recommend it to others facing similar hair issues.
This steady and impressive improvement over time highlights the potent and lasting efficacy of Hair’inside™.
EURO COSMETICS:
Since Hair’Inside is classed as a food supplement, with cosmetic and health(non-cosmetic) claims, how do you balance the regulatory requirements in terms of the borderline products regulations, and the need for robust data?
Ilona Gille:
To effectively balance the regulatory requirements regarding borderline products and the need for robust data for Hair’inside™, it’s essential to navigate the distinctions between health and beauty claims. Hair’inside™ qualifies as an ingredient for food supplements, allowing us to make both types of claims.
Health claims are governed by strict regulations under European law (Reg. CE N°1924/2006), with defined wording that limits differentiation opportunities. In contrast, beauty claims, which pertain solely to appearance without linking to health, are not specifically regulated. The primary guideline is that these claims must not mislead consumers, although there is no official standard for the scientific evidence required to support them.
The challenge lies in the nuanced differences between these claims; for example, “shining hair” is classified as a beauty claim, while “brilliant healthy hair” falls under health claims. Given the variability in interpretation across different EU countries, it’s crucial to clearly distinguish between beauty and health claims on our packaging and marketing materials. This clarity will help avoid consumer confusion while allowing us to leverage both types of claims effectively. Robust data is still vital, particularly for health claims, to ensure compliance and build consumer trust. By adhering to these guidelines, we can successfully position Hair’inside™ in the market while maintaining regulatory integrity.
EURO COSMETICS:
What were your objectives and key USP(s), in creating this professional resource for brands?
Ilona Gille:
At Activ’Inside, our objective in developing this professional resource for brands was to better understand and meet consumer expectations in the hair health supplement market. As a reminder, the aforementioned study revealed several key desires: 69% of consumers seek supplements that improve overall hair beauty, 76% prioritize products that strengthen hair and promote growth, and 55% look for supplements that enhance hair shine. Additionally, more than 40% of consumers consider factors such as products being made in France, which is associated with high-quality standards and stringent regulations.
Trust in a brand’s reputation, transparency, and reliability is also crucial, as is the relevance of the benefits offered by the supplements. Consumers prefer natural formulations free from synthetic ingredients and environmentally friendly, and they are drawn to products providing multiple benefits.
As mentioned before, our research highlighted that while traditional ingredients like biotin and keratin are commonly used, there is a lack of innovation in ingredients that comprehensively address strength, growth, and shine. This gap presents an opportunity for a natural ingredient that fulfills these criteria. Hair’Inside™ aims to revolutionize hair care ingredients with natural, synergistic solutions that achieve over 90% satisfaction. This approach aligns with our mission to provide brands with effective, natural solutions tailored to the evolving needs of consumers.
EURO COSMETICS:
Thank you for the conversation.
Reference
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9917549
Ilona Gille
Ilona is a seasoned expert with a master’s degree in food engineering, she is at the interface between R&D and sales, enabling her to dissect the complicated science to make it comprehensible to all.