In reference to Alison’s column, Euro Cosmetics team spoke with the managing partners of Beauty Board Consultants (BBC), Evelyn Kirton, Vice President Sales & Marketing , Marie Ardita, Cosmetic Chemist and Biologist and Vince Spinnato, Cosmetic Chemist and Fragrance “Nose” who share how they work creatively with their customers to answer the call of the beauty and wellness minded consumer.
Beauty Board Consultants provides expert guidance with custom formulations, regulations, packaging, manufacturing, and distribution in the personal care, beauty and nutrition markets.
“ We have an amazing team of people that can address any and all questions or concerns a client might have”.
–Vince Spinnato–
EC:
Please introduce yourself to us and what has drawn your interest and commitment to the cosmetic industry?
Evelyn Kirton:
I actually came out of the paint, coatings, and industrial side of the distribution business. I was starting a new job with a global company when their personal care person left, and they asked if I would consider working in that field. I thought well “color is color” you just put it on a different medium! I can do this. I had NO IDEA what I got myself into, I cried for 6 months straight, as everything moved so quickly, and the demands for service were like nothing I had ever experienced before. But after six months, one of my ingredients was going into a launch, and once I saw the end product and realized I was part of that, I was bitten and fell hopelessly in love. My best friend’s today are all folks I’ve worked with in personal care, and I just love their energy and creativity.
Marie Ardita:
In my 40+ years in the Cosmetic Industry, I have touched all aspects of Personal Care from Formulation to Manufacturing to Launch. When I started as a Junior chemist at the Gillette Company in the 1970’s, I never thought a career in this industry existed! Throughout the years as a Chemist/Biologist I have been constantly amazed at the innovation and progress in the industry. The constant challenges in the search for better ways to make products that are healthier for both the consumer and the earth, drives both my intellect and my heart. This is a most satisfying and rewarding career that I am lucky to have stumbled on!
Vince Spinnato:
I am couture chemist and certified nose. When I was young, I watched the TV Series, DYNASTY with my mom and grandma. In the show the family owned a cosmetic company and created a dynasty. I was always so excited to see what they would create, and I knew when I was very young, that was what I was going to do. When I was old enough, I got in my car, left Pennsylvania and drove to LA in search of my dream. I have formulated for many clients and launched numerous skin, hair, color cosmetics, and fragrances. I can’t imagine doing anything else.
EC:
What challenges do you currently see in the industry?
Evelyn Kirton:
The consumer has gotten very savvy about understand what ingredients they want and do not want on their labels, or in their products. My clients rely on me to understand and educate them on trends, new ingredients and technologies, packaging information, helping them to navigate clean beauty, renewable, ethically sourced, sustainable, and even upcycled ingredients. It’s ever changing and keeping up with it all can be a challenge.
Marie Ardita:
From a scientist’s standpoint, the products meet all requirements that allow it to be sold in global markets. Also, brands are constantly looking for a way to set themselves apart from competitors. Due to this they often require “certifications” or “approvals” from watch dog organizations that consumers look to for advice when buying (eg. EWG, Leaping Bunny, Made Safe and others).
Vince Spinnato:
The economy always plays a role as we are recession resistant, not recession proof. The new regulatory demands that keep changing and evolving. Meeting with suppliers on an ongoing basis to keep up with what’s new in technology and trends.
EC:
How do you develop a successful, consumer-focused marketing strategy?
Evelyn Kirton:
Educate ourselves on all the latest trends, from magazine articles, to TIK TOK’s top 20 brands, Instagram and Facebook where brands post daily.
WE take a specific market, say hair growth, hair thickening, which has been huge for both men and women, we will explore all the active ingredients available, get presentations from the suppliers, and then use them in prototypes for our own client base. We can then help the brands and guide them to the hottest and trendiest markets, and give them options on actives, based on what they want their marketing story to be.
WE also look at GOOGLE Trends, UL Prospector, and make sure we attend as many industry shows as possible.
It’s important to listen to what your customer wants, understand where they want to go and form a plan for them. The worst thing you can do is guide a client where they do NOT want to go. Most brands want to know what’s new, what the HOT ingredients are, and how they visualize their story. We want to deliver that dream.
Marie Ardita:
It is important to be clear with the client regarding their market, product, cost of goods, and desired or undesired ingredients. If this is done at the beginning, it makes it easier to focus on the needs of the client without wasting time on materials that they do not want. It is also important to help the client focus on the claims they want to make to meet customer and expectations. All of this requires organization and a clear timeline to have speed to market and quality.
Vince Spinnato:
We always have to be the latest and greatest and most unique. We have to constantly change, and evolve, we have to research what’s out there and how to make it better. Education is the key, and we rely on our suppliers. Social media, and trade publications to keep us updated with what’s new. UL Prospector is my go-to when I need to find something
EC:
How important is it to embrace new technologies?
Evelyn Kirton:
We would be lost without technology! If anyone told me 5 years ago, TIK TOK would be the GO-TO site for beauty, I would have said they were crazy. But between TIK TOK and Amazon, which are taking bites out of the standard mass market retail outlets, we have had to ‘PIVOT” and track how important this is to the younger consumers. We did our first LIVE Instagram feed in the hopes we could educate the consumer on a wonderful technology called “BIOZYMES”. We are in love with these ingredients, and hope the consumers will be too
Marie Ardita:
Technology is part of progress without it we would stagnate. The best way to approach it is to break it down into smaller components that the non-scientist can understand. By breaking things down and comparing them to things that the average consumer would be familiar with, people are much more receptive and can have fun learning new technologies and how they can benefit us in our daily lives.
Vince Spinnato:
NEW Platforms; Made Safe to Good Face projects; EWG; help us keep ingredients organized and assigning value on safety and toxicity.
Having these platforms that did not even exist five years ago has made a tremendous difference.
EC:
Claims substantiation is an essential process in the field of marketing and advertising. Can you describe this process to us?
Marie Ardita:
Ingredients are chosen for their performance by the R&D or marketing team based on information supplied by the raw material vendor. These performance attributes must be verified by the brand in order to allow the claims they wish to make. Most brands will conduct human clinical trials tests designed to substantiate the claims they wish to make. Marketing will decide what claims they want and R&D will set up a clinical test with an independent laboratory to substantiate these claims with the approved formula. Based on the results of the testing, Marketing will go forward with their chosen claims.
Evelyn Kirton:
Sales is not usually involved in claim substantiation except at the initial introduction of the raw material to the brand. At that time, they will show data for the raw material supplier so that R&D/Marketing can see the probable benefits of using the material. If the client decides to use the material, sales provide any support the client needs.
EC:
In what areas do you see the greatest need for cosmetics manufacturers?
Marie Ardita:
Cosmetic manufacturer’s must be aware of the quality and regulatory status of each material in a formula – they must be up to date on all global and local regulations so as not to have issues – it is incumbent upon the R&D staff to to be sure that they are following GMPs, FDA, Regulatory , FTC etc. so that they can protect their client from liability. This is difficult since resources can be stretched due to the rapidly changing industry standards.
Evelyn Kirton:
The greatest need is to ensure that the brand/client is fully informed of all aspects of their product. Sales works with the client and R&D to make sure the raw material suppliers provide manufacturer with necessary documentation.
EC:
What sets you apart from your competitors?
Evelyn Kirton:
We are always looking for a way to disrupt the same old business mode. I think about the next 5 years, and world domination! My motto is “pivot”. Most companies are so bogged down with corporate structures that any issues have to go through so many channels it can take forever for decisions to be made. We can ‘pivot’ on a dime! Also, with all the mergers and acquisitions it’s hard to keep track of companies and whose who know. I saw a need to create a “network” of the most respected people in the industry, who can partner with us to cover every available aspect of what a customer/brand might need. People that we know our clients are comfortable working with, and that they can rely on them to get the job done quickly. From “seed to shelf” we understand what it takes to get there, what products will get you there, and make sure our team is aligned and up to speed on all those aspects.
Marie Ardita:
We are constantly thinking about ways to improve how products are made, what they are made from and trying to be sure all is a sustainable and renewable. An important point is reaching out to the consumer to find what they think is important and making sure they can be part of the dialog.
Vince Spinnato:
Extreme transparency, in all aspects of services we offer. We understand the trends in upcycling, renewable, sustainable, ingredients as well as biodegradable packaging the new role they play and how important they are to new emerging brands.
EC:
Within the new Wellness meets Beauty consumer focus, are there particular markets that you are focused on?
Evelyn Kirton:
We do not want to be known as a commodity house. We are in love with technology, and we see our industry moving more into BIOscience ingredients, the more natural the better. This is very exciting because they can really do amazing things. From “targeted” delivery systems to cell regeneration, to addressing problem skin that could only put a band aid on. Now science is proving we can regenerate our skin cells, as well as ingredients that can enhance or even take the place of things like Botox, fillers, and chemical peels. We have found some amazing natural technology that will address these issues with plant-based ingredients.
Marie Ardita:
We focus on Personal Care (Face, body, hair), as well as oral care and nutrition.
Vince Spinnato:
Fragrance; Afro American Hair care; Oral Care; Women’s health; I have become specialized in these markets as these seem to be trending hot right now
EC:
How do you meet customers’ expectations?
Evelyn Kirton
We try to help them understand the chemistry, what is good, what might be bad on their label.
Marie Ardita:
We take our customers seriously and listen to them.
Vince Spinnato:
We have an amazing team of people that can address any and all questions or concerns a client might have. We have experts in almost every field to help a customer build their brand.
EC:
How does social media affect today?
Evelyn Kirton:
Influencers play a huge part in this and the money they make is crazy! Celebrities also have a head start in influencing what products to use. It always amazes me the power of Instagram, TIK TOK and Facebook for beauty.
Marie Ardita:
Social media drives a great deal of our efforts in developing new products. Sometimes it is explaining technology in an easily understandable format or debunking misinformation that has been released on social media. It is a tool we must use now in order to keep current with our future users. Social media is how future customers get to know you and your products – it is the fashion magazine of today – a show and tell that gets people excited in large numbers. The reach of your audience is immense and immediate. If we don’t keep up with it we will not be relevant. It is a little scary but also exciting.
Vince Spinnato:
A lot of chemists are becoming cosmetic experts on social media. Social media is driving the personal care industry right now. I had an intern from Argentina this summer, and she and I produced some TIK TOK videos. It was amazing to watch the number of followers grow with the more video’s we did about the cosmetic chemists.
In closing, today we have access to the entire world of Phyto-intelligence and technology. People want natural options whose efficacy they can trust. Because of accessibility they are sometimes affordable and sometimes not. For this reason and more, Chemists are figuring out daily how to better merge natural and synthetic ingredients. Ad marketers can now freely claim the health benefits long known to these indigenous sources. The consumer wins as the industry struggles to provide effective outcomes and remain separate from medical claims yet medical dermo-cosmetics has grown significantly since Albert Kligman, M.D. first coined the term “Cosmeceutical” representing medical products with cosmetic outcomes, over 40 years ago.
EC:
Thank you for your time and expert insights.