EURO COSMETICS Magazine • The trends and challenges in testing for active ingredients and cosmetics products • Anne Charpentier, Skinobs • Anne Charpentier, Skinobs

The trends and challenges in testing for active ingredients and cosmetics products

By Anne Charpentier

Euro Cosmetics March 2023
March 2023

It is usually admitted that the Cosmetics Regulations worldwide lay down a general rule according to which cosmetic products placed on the market must be safe for human health and offer the performance of their promised claims as long as they are used under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use.
Since the 90’s the testing services dedicated to the Beauty market are in the center of the product development from the really first R&D project initiation, the formulation, the regulatory affairs and finally the scientific communication around the safety and the performance of the active ingredients or finished products.
A multitude of drivers influence the evolution of the testing field: technology perspectives, environment … Today we focus on two of them:

The consumer opinion influence
The testing methods to answer the social responsibility for cleaner and more sustainable products are becoming more and more popular. The tests concerned are the analysis of the endocrine disruptors, other allergens and prohibited components identification, coral reef protection, nanoparticles quantifica-
tion … Furthermore, more educated consumers need to understand the results of the product performance and directly visualize the effect proof. The images is a good and reliable proof and better explanation than 1000 words. Then to answer the tendency of vegan new tests for in-vitro irritation or even stability measurements recently appeared. Regarding ethical concerns some ethically tricky human testing (UV dose, boarder line …) tend to be replaced by in-vitro or hybrid assays.



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