White Formulations – Do They Have a Future?

As 2024 ends, I thought I would give some consideration for thought on a subject which has been raised with me on and off during the year, and a little more intensely during these last months. The topic addresses the stand taken by a number of natural ingredient suppliers, that, ‘white formulations’ are now passé as todays modern consumer is more focused on product integrity and performance. Here goes…

________________________________________________________________________________

The cosmetics industry has long been dominated by a certain aesthetic—a pristine, often sterile image conveyed through “white” formulations. From the minimalist, almost clinical appearance of creams, lotions, and serums to the symbolic purity implied by the use of colourless products, the association between whiteness and “clean” beauty has been deeply ingrained in marketing. However, as the demand for natural, sustainable, and inclusive beauty products rises, this age-old focus on white formulations is being questioned – at least from the suppliers. We can argue that the future of cosmetics isn’t about perfect white products; it’s about embracing authenticity, nature, and diversity in both formulation and marketing. Why this shift is happening, and why the entrenched reliance on white formulations is losing its grip on today’s beauty-conscious consumer, I try to address here.

The “White” Ideal in Cosmetics: A Legacy of Purity and Perfection

Historically, the “white” appearance of cosmetic products was tied to ideals of purity and cleanliness. The colourless or lightly coloured formula suggested minimal additives, which was often associated with higher quality or a more refined product. This white aesthetic also served as a marketing tool—bright, white, and smooth products were visually aligned with the ideal of flawless skin.

In fact, many of the most famous cosmetics brands built their image around whiteness. From the name “Clinique” (evoking clinical, science-driven purity) to the use of white as a dominant brand colour for premium beauty lines, the aesthetic appealed to consumers looking for “perfect” formulations. But this ideal was never fully reflective of the diverse reality of consumers, and it missed the growing emphasis on sustainability and ingredient transparency that modern consumers increasingly demand.

The Natural Beauty Movement: A Shift Toward Authenticity

Over the past decade, we’ve witnessed a seismic shift in consumer attitudes toward cosmetic products. The desire for “clean” beauty—products that are not only free from so-called harmful chemicals but also sourced from natural, sustainable ingredients—has taken centre stage. Consumers are no longer satisfied and spend more time wondering about the source of ingredients or their environmental footprint. They want transparency and traceability.

This drive for natural-led formulations has spurred a rejection of synthetic additives, which often contribute to the white or pale colour of many cosmetics. Ingredients such as mineral oils, titanium dioxide, and artificial whitening agents that once dominated formulations are now under scrutiny, as they no longer align with the values of today’s environmentally and socially aware consumer. Consumers, it seems, want to see products that reflect natural colours—amber oils, green clays, lavender tints—that are the result of plant-based ingredients rather than synthetic dyes.

These ingredients may create products that are less pristine in appearance but are far more authentic. For example, natural oils like jojoba, argan, and rosehip can impart rich golden hues, while essential oils may create earthy scents and colours that tie a product to its botanical roots. As a result, “Natural” has become a new standard for luxury, with consumers prioritising wellness, sustainability, and ingredients that are not only effective but also aligned with their ethical values.

The Beauty of Diversity: Colour, Culture, and Inclusivity

Perhaps the most profound shift in recent years has been the call for greater inclusivity in beauty. The “white” aesthetic, while appealing to traditional ideas of cleanliness and perfection, fails to acknowledge the diversity of consumers, their cultures, and preferences in today’s global market. The demand, in recent years, for cosmetics that cater to a range of skin colours, with foundations and concealers designed to match deeper tones, is part of a broader movement toward inclusivity.

As cosmetic brands increasingly acknowledge that skin comes in every shade, the focus is shifting away from creating products that are universally “white” in appearance and instead designing formulations that cater to varied needs. Whether it’s incorporating mineral pigments or natural botanical extracts that bring out the best in different skin tones, today’s formulations are moving toward a more diverse and inclusive palette.

For instance, products like tinted sunscreens and BB creams, which often used to be offered in limited shades of white or beige, are now available in a broad spectrum of tones, reflecting the diversity of their users. The colour of the product never determined its quality or efficacy—whatever the ‘claims’. What matters is how it works for individual skin types and concerns!

Consumer Expectations: Quality Over Colour

Another reason the white formulation trend might be waning is because today’s consumers are more interested in results than in the colour of their products. In an age where social media and online reviews allow consumers to easily share their experiences, there’s greater emphasis on how products perform rather than their aesthetic appearance. Consumers are looking for cosmetics that nourish their skin, enhance their natural beauty, and align with their values—and they’re less likely, in my view, to be swayed by the traditional idea of white purity.

Moreover, advancements in formulation technology have made it possible to create highly effective products without relying on artificial whitening agents or overly processed ingredients. The focus is now on potent botanicals, bio-active ingredients, and plant-based oils that not only enhance skin well-being but also contribute to a more sustainable planet. Consumers are also savvy and more attuned to ingredient lists than ever before. They are less likely to buy into the concept of “whiteness” as a proxy for quality. Instead, they are looking for transparency, ethical sourcing, and clean, green formulations that make them feel good about their purchases.

The Future of Cosmetics: Embracing Diversity and Sustainability

As the cosmetic industry moves forward, the focus is shifting toward a more inclusive, sustainable, and ethical approach to cosmetics. White formulations, seen as the ideal for purity and luxury, are likely being replaced by products that reflect the diversity of nature and the global consumer. The trend is clear: consumers want cosmetics that are as diverse, vibrant, and natural as the world around them.

Brands that continue to prioritise the “white” ideal might risk alienating a growing base of consumers who are no longer looking for the sterile, clinical, or overly processed image of beauty. Instead, they are seeking products that are genuine, transparent, and reflective of the true beauty found in nature. Whether it’s a rich, honey-coloured oil or a deep green face mask, the future of beauty lies in embracing authenticity over the unattainable ideal of whiteness.

In short, the days of the white formulation in cosmetics may well numbered. The future belongs to products that speak to the modern consumer’s desire for sustainability, inclusivity, and authenticity. The shift is about embracing a richer, more diverse and transparent future for beauty.

To test the hypothesis that the colour of a product is no longer a top priority for today’s consumers, during the course of 2025 I am engaging in an international consumer study to see if it’s true – or not – as the case may be. Thanks to all my ‘natural’ customers and colleagues for this encouragement.

With that I wish everyone a Peaceful New Year! See you in 2025.