Exhibition Report: InCosmetics Global Paris April 2024

By Theresa Callaghan PhD


Once again, the city of Paris was the venue for InCosmetics Global and on the 16th April 2024, the cosmetics industry arrived in force to see and partake, over 3 days, in one of the key events that showcases new ingredients, application trends and technology advancements. There were more than 900 suppliers and 10 individual zones and pavilions. Around 200 suppliers exhibited for the first time at this year’s event. In addition, there were 94 technical lectures, 34 sustainability lectures and 21 marketing trend lectures.
New this year were the sponsored R&D tours on the Microbiome (Probiotica), Neurocosmetics (Mibelle), and Scalp skinification (Symrise). Key to this year’s event was the partnering of Covalo
with InCosmetics. Covalo is the industry’s well-established one stop resource library for ingredients and associated formulation services.
The Zones and Pavilions were well supported, and these included a large pavilion from China. Other international pavilions were from Brazil, Spain, Peru, Scandinavia, and included Finland
(with Innomost being a nominee for best active ingredient), as well as from North Africa. Regular Zones were represented for Sustainability, Fragrance, Testing & Regulatory, Formulations, and
Innovation. The French business cluster Cosmetic Valley was well supported this year with many innovations applicable to the perfume and cosmetics industry. Key research innovations were a
bio-inspired AI solution to predict accurate odor perception; a test based on three strains of micro-algae to assess the toxicity of cosmetics on water; and a proposed solution for the photo-production of bio-sourced hydrocarbons from vegetable fatty acids (mainly coconut and almond oil), the aim here to replace the fossil-based hydrocarbons used in cosmetics.

EURO COSMETICS Magazine • Exhibition Report: InCosmetics Global Paris April 2024 • Theresa Callaghan • Theresa Callaghan


As in previous events, InCosmetics hosted an awards event for best Functional ingredient, and Active ingredient. The Green award was also presented as well as the Kenvue Trusted Science
award. The winners were:

Best Functional Ingredient was awarded to Evonik for Remo XP. (This is claimed to be a versatile, mild ingredient that acts as a rheology modifier, as well as being a hydrophilic emollient
and sensory enhancer. It is further claimed that this functional ingredient can be used in a wide range of personal care applications.)
Second place was awarded to Galaxy Surfactants Ltd for Galseer DermaGreen (this is a natural cleanser).
Third place was awarded to Lubrizol Life Sciences for Carbopol Fusion-S20 polymer (a claimed natural and biodegradable rheology modifier for cleansing systems).

Best Active Ingredient was awarded to DSM-Firmenich for Eterwell Youth (a “sensolytic” active made from an extract of Epilobium fleischeri leaf/stem. It is claimed the ingredient stimulates collagen, helps reverse skin damage induced by excess “zombie” cells, and helps slow premature skin aging, among other benefits).
Second place was awarded to Mibelle Biochemistry for RejuveNAD (claims to optimise cellular functions and to revitalise the skin by naturally stimulating the longevity molecule, NAD+).
Third place was awarded to CODIF Technologie Naturelle for Regetaste (which claims to reinforce the skin’s barrier function, reducing desquamation and leaving skin smoother, softer, fresher and more radiant.

Best Green award went to Boreal Bioproducts for SpruceSugar (a claimed biodegradable agent that forms a protective film against grease, an anionic surfactant and a low-viscosity modifier).
Second place was awarded to Ashland for Perfectly Biofunctional (chamomile extract, claimed to clarify and smooth skin blemishes and for all ethnic skin groups).
Third place was awarded to Lignovations for LignoGuard Aqua 20 (an ecological multifunctional ingredient claimed to be based on recycled lignin).

The Kenvue Trusted Science award was presented to BASF for their Hydrasensyl Glucan Green. Second place was awarded to Evonik for their TEGO Filmstart One MB, and third place was awarded to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (Clariant) for their Immunight.

The Rising Star Award for newcomers (first and second years) was awarded to Kaffe Bueno and Skinosive. Kaffe Bueno is a Danish start-up specialising in the recycling of coffee by-products. Skinosive is a dermo-cosmetic biotechnology company developing a technological platform for skin photo-protection.

Colour Cosmetics – In the Make-Up Bar Award category, the first prize was awarded to the international manufacturer of pearlescent and metallic effect pigments, Eckart GmbH, for its Trend Colours for the autumn winter season 2025-26. The second prize was awarded to Imerys Talc Europe for its Matte lipstick ceremony, a lipstick enriched with ImerCare 400D a diatomaceous earth, which claims to give lips a matte finish while retaining a creamy effect. Nikko Chemicals, Japan, a global supplier of ingredients for cosmetics, was awarded third place for its Rei-Sei-Bi – Cold Process Beauty technology.

Notable ingredients in the colour category included Merck’s Xirona Le Coeur pearl pigment, designed to imitate nature’s multichromatic designs based on a special layer-substrate technology resulting in transitional interference or color absorption; Bioglitter SPARKLE V2 metallic effect glitters from Sigmund Lindner, and are claimed to be the world’s first fully EU 2023/2055 microplastic compliant metallic effect glitter; and Sunflower Wax Cerafumei from FumeiPharm.

Sensory Cosmetics – In the Sensory Bar Award category, the first prize was awarded to Microcaps AG, for its natural, ethanol-free perfume pearls. Second prize was awarded to
Univar Solutions for its Lavish Lavender Oil-free Massage Gel. Technature was awarded third prize for SkinSitu Caps, a small “tablet” that transforms into a cleansing foam as soon as it encounters water.

EURO COSMETICS Magazine • Exhibition Report: InCosmetics Global Paris April 2024 • Theresa Callaghan • Theresa Callaghan


Sustainability Took Centre Stage Again – As in recent years, Sustainability emerged as a dominant theme throughout the event, reflecting the industry’s commitment to environmental responsibility. Exhibitors showcased Eco-friendly solutions, natural and organic ingredients, etc., The emphasis on sustainability underscored the industry’s collective efforts towards creating products that are both ethically and environmentally sound. AAK sponsored companies wishing to showcase their inspiring environmental initiatives. Furthermore, the Sustainability Forum, which was new at InCosmetics 2024, was a live program designed to share and discuss new advancements delivering sustainability improvements.

Innovation For Formulations

Exosomes, the Sea, Fermenting Oils, and Longevity were some of the stand-out themes of the show. Of note were fermented oils from Kupanda (South Africa), new data from Algica (Sweden), well-ageing from Provital (Spain) with ShiloxomeTM, and new ingredients Illumiscin®-Glow and Scalpinist®-Sesno from Rahn (Switzerland) to name a few. Attendees witnessed a plethora of innovative formulations designed to meet evolving consumer demands. From advanced skincare solutions to cutting-edge technologies, exhibitors showcased a diverse range of ingredients as well as proof-of-principle formulations, tailored to address specific consumer needs. The integration of technology, such as artificial intelligence and biotechnology, into product development processes was also evident, highlighting the industry’s commitment to innovation. AI-led beauty, simplicity and nutricosmetics (mind-body) wellness were also observed trends, and were picked up on the lecture circuit with presentations from Marketing, and R&D. Key topics included personalized skin and hair care, wellness and longevity, simplicity in beauty, biotech versus nature, and mainstreaming. Sustainability as a theme in its own right, cross-industry collaborations meant the sharing of knowledge between suppliers and brands.
In Cosmetics will be returning to Amsterdam in 2025.

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