In Defence of Experienced Scientists in the Cosmetics Industry: Why Age and Expertise Matter

EURO COSMETICS Magazine • In Defence of Experienced Scientists in the Cosmetics Industry: Why Age and Expertise Matter • Theresa Callaghan • Theresa Callaghan
NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2024

Introduction

In an era where innovation is often equated with youth, it is not uncommon to hear the term “dinosaur” used as a dismissive label for seasoned professionals in the cosmetics industry. But this stereotype — of older scientists being out of touch, or overly focused on writing books for profit — is not only inaccurate, it undermines the incredible value that experienced individuals bring to the table. As a senior scientist with years of experience in cosmetics science, and blessed with peers who can fittingly be described as eminent, I stand by the belief that age and expertise are assets that deserve recognition, especially when it comes to the complex and ever-evolving world of cosmetic science.

The Power of Experience

One of the most compelling reasons to value experienced scientists in the cosmetics field is the depth of knowledge that comes with years of practice. The science behind cosmetics — from understanding skin biology to developing safe, effective formulas — is intricate and highly specialized. A senior scientist’s wealth of experience often comes from a combination of decades of trial and error, rigorous testing, and exposure to a vast range of ingredients, technologies, and regulatory landscapes.

Many of the industry’s most groundbreaking innovations, such as the development of advanced skincare actives or sustainable packaging solutions, have come from the knowledge accumulated by experts who have witnessed firsthand how trends and technologies evolve over time. These senior scientists are often able to spot patterns, anticipate changes, and offer solutions based on decades of problem-solving experience. Their historical perspective is an invaluable resource when navigating new challenges in the industry.

Mentorship and Knowledge Transfer

Experience is not only valuable in the lab, but it’s also crucial for mentorship. Younger scientists entering the field benefit immensely from the guidance and support of seasoned professionals. Through mentorship, older scientists can pass on crucial knowledge about product development, regulatory compliance, safety testing, and ethical considerations — topics that simply cannot be taught in textbooks. This transfer of knowledge ensures the continuity and growth of the industry, while also promoting a collaborative environment where younger and older generations of scientists work together toward common goals.

Furthermore, mentoring isn’t just about technical know-how; it’s also about sharing wisdom on navigating the challenges of a scientific career. The industry’s dynamics — including leadership roles, business considerations, and evolving consumer expectations — are better understood by those who have lived through them. This kind of perspective is crucial for grooming the next generation of leaders in the cosmetics field.

Innovation Doesn’t Have an Age Limit

It’s a common misconception that innovation is the sole domain of younger generations. The truth is that innovation in the cosmetics industry — like in any other field — can come from anyone with the right combination of expertise, curiosity, and creative thinking. In fact, many senior scientists find that their years of experience allow them to approach problems from a unique angle, drawing upon a wide range of methods and solutions they have accumulated over time.

Older scientists often bring a deep understanding of what has worked (and what hasn’t) in the past, which can guide the creation of more sustainable, ethical, and scientifically rigorous products. Their perspective can help to ensure that new developments are built on a solid foundation of scientific principles rather than fleeting trends. Moreover, they often understand the long-term implications of decisions, from product efficacy to safety to environmental impact, which can prevent costly mistakes that might otherwise be made in the rush to keep up with the latest fads.

The Truth About Books & Chapters

There’s also a misconception that older scientists write books primarily for profit. In reality, writing a book is not a money-making venture unless you are a superstar such as JK Rowling, John Le Carré or Agatha Christie, for example. For most seasoned professionals, it is a labour of love — a way to share their knowledge, document their experiences, and leave a legacy for future generations. The process of writing a book is labour-intensive and often a deeply personal endeavour, requiring research and reflection, while the publishers devour what little gain there might be.

While a book does not bring any financial riches, it does contribute to the industry by providing a repository of knowledge that others can refer to. Books and book chapters by experienced scientists often become references for scientists, young professionals, and even industry veterans who want to deepen their understanding of specific aspects of cosmetic science. These texts also serve as a bridge between past innovations and future advancements, ensuring that the hard-won lessons of the past aren’t forgotten as the industry moves forward.

In the era of immediate answers, many senior professionals have observed a shift in how younger scientists approach learning resources—particularly books. Rather than seeing them as starting points for exploration, young scientists often expect books to provide all the answers, clear and definitive. The question is, why has this expectation developed, and what happened to the critical thinking that comes from engaging deeply with complex, often ambiguous material?

With the internet and digital learning tools at their fingertips, today’s scientists grow up in a world where answers are instantly accessible. Need to know how a chemical reaction works? A quick search provides an overview. Want to understand the latest study in dermatology? An app can summarise it for you. This convenience has countless benefits, but it can also create the illusion that complex problems have straightforward answers. In this environment, books—often more nuanced, comprehensive, and filled with exploratory questions—can feel frustrating to those expecting a quick solution.

Critical thinking, or the ability to analyse, question, and evaluate information independently, is a fundamental skill for any scientist. It’s what turns good scientists into great ones and what helps our field evolve with each generation. Encouraging younger scientists to see books as a starting point rather than a finish line is key. They can benefit immensely from approaching resources not with the expectation of finding all the answers, but with the goal of finding new questions.

In the scientific community, mentoring can help foster this mindset shift. Senior scientists can encourage open discussions, create learning environments that reward curiosity, and provide resources that emphasise inquiry over rote learning. With the right support, young scientists can embrace the journey of discovery—developing critical thinking skills that will enable them to tackle the complex, often ambiguous questions that drive real progress in science.

Books are designed to be more than repositories of facts; they’re structured to encourage reflection and to challenge the reader to engage critically with complex ideas. The unanswered questionsin books are there to stimulate thought, prompt debate, and open avenues for further investigation. But if one approaches a book expecting definitive answers, these questions can feel like obstacles rather than opportunities. Younger scientists who lack experience in inquiry-based learning may struggle with this, feeling disappointed when theyre asked to consider questions that don’t have immediate, straightforward answers.

Respecting Experience in a Youth-Centric Industry

The cosmetics industry, like many others, is driven by trends, and there is a significant focus on youth and new ideas. However, this doesn’t mean we should overlook the immense value of experience. In fact, the most successful innovations are often a balance between the bold ideas of the young and the time-tested principles of the experienced.

The reality is that experienced scientists are not just “dinosaurs” stuck in the past; they are experts who continue to adapt, innovate, and contribute to the industry in meaningful ways. They are the guardians of scientific rigour, the mentors of future generations, and the pioneers of sustainable, evidence-based solutions that will shape the future of cosmetics.

Conclusion: A Call for Balance

In the end, the true strength of any industry lies in its diversity — not just in terms of age, but in the diversity of thought, background, and experience. It is time to recognise that older scientists in the cosmetics field are not relics of the past but integral to the future. By embracing the wisdom and experience of seasoned professionals while also fostering the creativity and innovation of younger scientists, the cosmetics industry can continue to grow and evolve in a way that is both scientifically sound and forward-thinking.

So, the next time you hear someone dismissively referring to experienced scientists as “dinosaurs,” remember: innovation doesn’t have an age limit, and experience is one of the most valuable assets we can bring to the cosmetic table.

…And on the Subject of Ageing…

Dinosaurs, as ancient creatures that once ruled the Earth for over 160 million years, had a number of remarkable advantages that allowed them to thrive in a variety of environments and epochs. While these advantages were biologically and ecologically specific to their time, some of their traits can be seen as metaphorical or inspirational for modern challenges, including those faced by ageist cosmetic scientists working with themes of ageing, rejuvenation, and the preservation of youthful appearance.

Adaptability to Diverse Environments

Dinosaurs thrived across many different ecosystems—from the hot, dry deserts to lush forests, from land to water. Their ability to adapt to various conditions (e.g., carnivores vs. herbivores) and environments was key to their long-term survival. In the world of cosmetic science, especially when dealing with anti-ageing solutions, adaptability is key. Just as dinosaurs adapted to survive different climates and challenges, cosmetic scientists must design products that are adaptable to different skin types, environmental factors, and diverse populations. Today’s ageist concerns focus on youth, but the industry should consider how beauty and skincare can adapt to the needs of people of all ages and backgrounds, promoting inclusivity rather than catering solely to youthful ideals.

Efficient Metabolism and Energy Use

Dinosaurs had highly efficient metabolic systems, allowing them to grow to immense sizes while still maintaining energy levels needed for survival, hunting, and migration. In cosmetics, the idea of efficiency mirrors the push for more effective, long-lasting anti-ageing products that not only slow ageing but also rejuvenate skin at the cellular level. Just as dinosaurs evolved to make the most of available resources, cosmetic scientists can focus on creating treatments that maximise the efficacy of ingredients while reducing unnecessary additives or harsh chemicals. Efficiency in skincare can help create more sustainable, ethical products with less environmental impact.

Natural Protection Systems

Many dinosaurs had natural defences—like thick scales or armoured plating in herbivores (e.g., ankylosaurs) or the swift agility of predators (e.g., velociraptors). These adaptations helped them survive predators, extreme weather, and other threats. The concept of “protection” is central to modern skincare. From UV protection to shielding against pollutants, the cosmetic industry today focuses heavily on skin defense. Just as dinosaurs evolved to protect themselves from external dangers, modern cosmetic products are designed to protect skin from environmental stressors and signs of ageing, promoting a more robust and resilient appearance as people age. This resonates with the desire to maintain youthful skin, or at least healthy, well-preserved skin, through innovative protective technologies.

Diversity of Form and Function

Dinosaurs came in a wide range of forms—huge, lumbering sauropods to quick, fleet-footed theropods. This diversity in form allowed for specialized survival strategies, whether through physical prowess, speed, or sheer size. The diversity of dinosaurs can be a powerful metaphor for the broad spectrum of beauty standards in the modern world. Just as dinosaurs adapted to various ecological niches, today’s beauty standards are evolving to recognise the diversity of ageing faces and bodies. Ageist tendencies in the cosmetic industry are often challenged by advocates for inclusivity. Skincare and anti-ageing treatments could be more personalised, catering to different individuals and offering products that are as diverse as the people who use them.

Evolution and Longevity

Dinosaurs thrived for millions of years, suggesting a degree of evolutionary success and stability. Their species persisted through multiple extinction events, such as the Permian-Triassic mass extinction, until their eventual demise. In the age of longevity science, there is a growing desire not just to “look young” but to **live well** as we age. This parallels the long lifespan of dinosaurs. Cosmetic scientists might look to the evolutionary success of dinosaurs as a model for how they approach ageing: rather than focusing solely on superficial appearance, scientists should think about how to enhance longevity at the cellular and metabolic level. This could mean developing products that promote healthier skin at a molecular level, encouraging ageing as a natural, graceful process, rather than something to be feared or hidden.

Symbiotic Relationships

Many dinosaurs lived in ecosystems where they had symbiotic relationships with other organisms. For example, certain herbivores might have relied on the flora around them to maintain their health, while predators helped control the population of weaker animals, keeping ecosystems balanced. Ageist cosmetic trends often emphasise extreme solutions for ageing, such as invasive procedures or quick fixes. But there is a growing awareness in skincare about the importance of balance, sustainability, and collaboration. Much like dinosaurs in their ecosystems, products and ingredients that work in harmony with each other (e.g., using probiotics for skin health or natural ingredients in synergy) are being embraced. The recognition that ageing is not a battle to be fought, but a process to be supported, could shift the focus from “anti-ageing” to where skin health is about nurturing rather than fighting nature.

Aesthetic Variety

The variety of dinosaurs was also mirrored in their beauty—whether it was the bright colours, frills, or elaborate displays (think of the feathered dinosaurs or those with impressive crests or horns). Dinosaurs’ striking physical forms highlight the value of diversity in beauty. In today’s world, there’s an increasing movement to celebrate ageing in all its forms. The cosmetic industry could shift from enforcing ageist ideals to fostering a more inclusive vision of beauty—one that celebrates people at all stages of life, just as dinosaur species were diverse in form and purpose.

Dinosaurs thrived because of their unique biological advantages, their ability to adapt to diverse environments, and their resilience. Similarly, today’s cosmetic industry could benefit from a mindset shift that celebrates diversity, health, and the natural beauty of ageing, rather than focusing solely on the superficial pursuit of eternal youth. By drawing inspiration from the evolutionary success of dinosaurs, cosmetic scientists can create products that support healthy, age-inclusive beauty standards, making room for an appreciation of all ages in a way that is both empowering and sustainable.

So, whether you, as a scientist, are a dinosaur, wooly mammoth, young seedling, or a bright young spark, the industry saluts you!

EURO COSMETICS Magazine • Theresa Callaghan • Theresa Callaghan • Theresa Callaghan
Theresa Callaghan
Skin Care Scientist and Cosmetic Product Claim Specialist

Theresa Callaghan, a PhD biochemist with over 35 years of experience in corporate skin care research, has held key R&D senior roles for companies including LVMH, Unilever, Marks & Spencer, J&J, Evonik, Hill-Top Research, and proDERM. In 2008, she created Callaghan Consulting International, focusing on cosmetic claims development with brands and ingredient suppliers. She is a widely published author, frequent speaker, and contributor to peer-reviewed journals. Her acclaimed book, 'Help! I'm Covered in Adjectives: Cosmetic Claims & The Consumer', is now in its second edition and translated. She is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCANCOS) and British Herbal Medicine Association. Theresa serves on the editorial peer review board of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. She also mentors, and has her own Cosmetic Claims Insights Column with Euro Cosmetics.

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