Introduction
Our skin is a fascinating ecosystem inhabited by billions of microorganisms. These microbes – the microbiota – interact with the skin in a complex way and significantly influence its health and appearance. In recent years, the importance of the microbiota in skincare has led to a veritable revolution in cosmetics. New approaches use plant-based actives to support the balance of the skin microbiota, alleviating skin concerns. This article will explore the role of microbiota, how it affects our skin, and the new mechanisms being applied in the cosmetics industry.
The microbiota: you, me and us
The human body is not just a collection of human cells, but also hosts a vast amount of microbes, collectively referred to as microbiota. The microbiota is comprised of a wide variety of microorganisms, including bacteria, yeast, fungi, protozoa, and viruses. These microorganisms live in a symbiotic relationship with the host and are crucial for maintaining skin health. The idea that we are “holobionts” – a combination of human cells and microbes – has become an important concept in the cosmetics industry.
In recent years, the microbiota has become one of the central topics in skin care. International congresses and numerous scientific articles repeatedly emphasize how microbes influence humans and what effects this has on skin care products.
The diversity of the microbiota
The diversity of the microbiota is astounding. Studies show that there are more than 30 phyla that colonize the skin. This diversity varies not only from person to person, but also on the different parts of the skin of a single individual. Thus, the microorganisms on the forehead differ from those on the cheek or hands. The composition of the microbiota is so unique that in 2015, researchers at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health found that the microbiota can uniquely identify people – similar to a fingerprint.
The microbiota is also subject to changes over time. Microbes can already be found in the amniotic fluid during fetal development, and there is evidence that the child’s microbiome begins to develop in the womb. During birth, the newborn’s skin is exposed to the microbes of the birth canal. The skin microbiome is strongly influenced by the mother’s microbiome. Babies who are born naturally have a different bacterial community on their skin than those who are born by cesarean section. During the course of life, the composition and function of the microbiota continue to change, for example during puberty, when hormonal changes affect the skin.
Functions of the microbiota: protection and communication
The microbiota plays a crucial role in skin health. It improves the skin’s antimicrobial defense by secreting certain bacteria such as C. acnes and Corynebacterium in the sebaceous glands lipases that produce free fatty acids (FFA) and thus create an acidic pH. These FFAs inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms, resulting in a stronger skin barrier. In addition, microbes produce substances that activate the skin’s immune system, including antimicrobial peptides such as beta-defensin-2.
Communication between microbes occurs via so-called quorum sensing molecules, which are synthesized and secreted by bacteria. This form of communication, called quorum sensing, enables bacteria to obtain information about their environment and to coordinate collective behavior. For example, quorum sensing can regulate the formation of biofilms to protect the organism from external influences. Imbalances in this communication can lead to dysbiosis and promote the development of skin diseases.
Microbiota and skin
An imbalance in the microbiota, also known as microbiota dysbiosis, can cause various skin problems. There is a close connection between this and changes in the microbial composition of the skin, as can be seen, for example, in diseases such as psoriasis, acne and atopic dermatitis.
- Age: Over the course of a person’s life, there is a change in the microbiota, the extent of which depends on various factors. There is an increased production of so-called “senile biome markers” (SBM). These proteases, lipases and phosphatases reduce the production of beta-defensin, weaken the skin barrier and impair collagen synthesis. Furthermore, they influence quorum sensing by reducing medium-chain fatty acids. The active ingredient QUORA NONI BIOMICS is designed to reduce SBM and regulate quorum sensing and the production of “juvenile biome markers” by the microbiome. This results in a rejuvenation of the microbiota, a reduction in wrinkles and an increase in skin firmness. At the same time, the skin becomes more resilient, resulting in less stress-related erythema and a reduction in red spots and pores.
- Atopic dermatitis: In the course of research into psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, an abnormal colonization of the human body by Staphylococcus aureus was detected. At the same time, a decrease in the number of Staphylococcus epidermidis bacteria was observed. Furthermore, a lower species diversity was observed in patients with severe atopic dermatitis, with a decrease in some bacterial species in favor of S. aureus. Dysbiosis can increase inflammatory reactions, which can result in worsening of symptoms. There are various approaches to restoring balance, for example, influencing quorum sensing with QUORA NONI. The composition of the skin microbiome is balanced, displacing S. aureus and strengthening S. epidermidis. Another approach is to reduce the amount of IL-8 released by S. aureus in keratinocytes, which could support a “healthy” microbiome. In this context, the active ingredient INTENCFY can be recommended. It inhibits the release of IL-8 by the pathogen-induced NfkB signaling pathway and leads to a visible improvement in the appearance of the skin and a reduction in the symptoms of atopic skin.
- Acne: Acne is a common condition associated with a dysbiosis of the skin microbiota. In this context, Propionibacterium acnes is of particular importance. The goal of acne treatment is to restore the balance of the skin microbiota and reduce inflammatory reactions. By modulating quorum sensing using QUORA NONI, the growth of pathogenic microorganisms on the skin can be regulated. This results in regulated sebum production, a reduction in pores and open comedones, and visibly improved skin appearance.
- Sun: Exposure of the skin to solar radiation can lead to an impairment of the skin microbiota, which in turn negatively affects the skin aging process. A sun-damaged microbiome induces increased oxidative stress in the skin, the production of pro-inflammatory and skin-structure-damaging molecules, and light-induced skin aging (photoaging). The active ingredient PHOTOBIOME induces the release of natural light protection molecules (solar postbiotics) by the microbiome, thereby achieving a protective effect against photodamage to the skin.
- Smell: The influence of quorum sensing can also be taken into account when developing deodorants. The active ingredient DEOBIOME NONI influences the metabolism of the microbiota, which reduces the formation of metabolic products that are responsible for unpleasant body odor, without damaging the microbiome.
- Wellbeing: The microbiota of the skin has an influence on wellbeing and, to some extent, on human behavior. There is a possibility that negative molecules are released, leading to skin barrier disorders and inflammation. In addition, sensory neurons in the brain can be activated, which can trigger the sensation of itching and the desire to scratch, for example. Of course, there is an alternative approach. KANNABIA SENSE induces the formation of health-promoting postbiotics, including oxytocin, by the microbiome, which has a positive effect on well-being. In vivo studies in which participants received placebo and active ingredient show that after the treatment, the subjects were more relaxed, happier and more self-confident. Furthermore, the effect described above could be demonstrated by means of a functional MRI, whereby a positive stimulation of the brain was detected in the areas known as pleasure zones.
- Hair scales: A dysbiosis can also occur on the scalp, which in turn is the cause of the development of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. The exact causes are not yet fully understood. However, an overproduction of sebum (tallow) and the yeast fungus Malassezia furfur are assumed to be the triggers. These lead to an excessive reaction of the immune system, which in turn causes the formation of dandruff. Here, too, influencing quorum sensing with DEOBIOME NONI can restore balance and prevent biofilm formation. Even at a low concentration of 0.5%, the ingredient, which is NATRUE and COSMOS approved, significantly reduces dandruff and normalizes sebum levels, from oily to healthy scalp.
Conclusion
The microbiota plays a crucial role in skin health, opening up new opportunities for the cosmetics industry. Plant stem cells provide an innovative and natural approach to supporting the balance of the skin microbiota and protecting the skin from harmful influences. By optimizing the natural environment for microorganisms on the skin, they promote healthy skin and prevent disease.
The future of skin care lies in the synergy between microbiota, plant stem cells and targeted product development that is tailored to the individual skin condition and microbiological needs. novoclon GmbH specializes in active ingredients for cosmetic products. We are particularly strong in the areas of vitamins (A, B, C and E), hyaluronic acid and ceramides, as well as in the distribution of active ingredients from the companies vytrus biotech (Spain), Barnet (USA) and Laboratorios Argenol (Spain). Another specialty is a plant-based insect repellent with excellent effectiveness against mosquitoes, ticks and other pests.
