The Rise of Nutricosmetics: Beyond Skin-Deep Beauty
During the recent years, a holistic approach recognizes that true beauty emanates from the harmonious balance between internal well-being and external appearance.
The use of topical cosmetics is limited to the outer layers of the skin. This is where the positive impact of nutricosmetics comes into play.
Introducing AGILIROSE® BEAUTY: A Synergistic Rosehip & Collagen Blend
Rosehip (Rosa canina L.) and its water-extract, are rich in bioactive compounds such as antioxidants and therefore scavenges reactive oxygen species and thus reduces skin damage, increases moisture content, improves skin regeneration 1.
The rosehip extract used in this in vivo study is made from peels of wild-growing rosehip berries extracted with water (DEV 4:1). It is a patented botanical extract manufactured by Finzelberg GmbH & Co KG and marketed as AGILIROSE® BEAUTY.
Previous studies have shown an anti-inflammatory effect of this rosehip peels extract from through cytokine release reduction and TNF alpha inhibition2,3 as well as a synergistic effect between collagen hydrolysates and this special Rosehip extract when both are simultaneously given. Moreover, the most recent studies, which are related to skin and its metabolism, have shown that the extract modulates the expression of many genes functionally categorized into pathways related to skin health, including synthesis of structural proteins of the epidermis, integrity and function of the skin barrier, anti-inflammatory function, and antioxidant defense 4.
In our study performed by Eurofins Derma Tronnier GmbH / Dermscan PL the effect of Agilirose® Beauty on several skin parameters were determined.
Study Design: A 2-Month Clinical Evaluation
A study was performed on a total of 66 volunteers (female, between 45 and 65 years old) with normal to dry skin and phototype II and III, representing Central European skin. The purpose of the study was to confirm earlier in-vitro results and to prove that Agilirose® Beauty works as nutricosmetic ingredient by improving skin physiological parameters.
A nutricosmetic product, called RosaGlow for the purpose of the study, was developed as instant drink preparation in a sachet format, containing the main active ingredient Rose hip extract (0,5 gr; AGILIROSE® BEAUTY; Finzelberg) as well as, bioactive collagen peptides(2,5 gr ;VERISOL® Gelita) and orange aroma. An instant drink with similar taste, color, and solubility was developed for the placebo group.
All participants of the verum group (n=33) and placebo group (n=33) received sufficient sachets to dissolve with one glass of water per day over a period of 2 months.
At the start (t=0), after 4 weeks (t=28 days) and after 8 weeks (t =56 days) of supplementation, skin physiological parameters were assessed and parallelly questionnaires about the efficacy of the products were handed out to the volunteers as it is shown on Table 1.
Hydration & Barrier Function: Strengthening Skin from Within
after 4 weeks (D28) and 8 weeks (D56)
Skin as the outer barrier of the body must protect us against external influences as well as to avoid the evaporation of water to the environment. Therefore, the strength of the skin barrier can be measured through the trans-epidermal waterloss (TEWL) which is reduced in healthy skin with a functioning skin barrier.
The measurement of the TEWL of the volunteers taking AGILIROSE® BEAUTY showed a significant decrease of the TEWL after 4- and 8-weeks related to baseline, meaning a reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier (Fig.1)
Next to the skin barrier, the hydration improved during the application period of 2 months with AGILIROSE® BEAUTY so that a significant increase was observed already after 4 weeks whereas the group taking the placebo drink remained constant indicating no improvement. Next to the physiological parameters measured, nearly 90 % of the volunteers testified a well-moistured (86 %) and smoother skin (87 %), in contrast to the placebo formulation, which remained the same. (Fig. 2 ).
The 27% improvement over 8 weeks suggests that continued use significantly enhances skin hydration. This non-linear increase from week 4 to week 8 indicates that AGILIROSE® BEAUTY has a cumulative effect on skin hydration—meaning that the longer it is used, the more noticeable the benefits become.
Coming back to the trans-epidermal waterloss explained before, the outcome of the measurement and evaluation of skin moisturization suggests that AGILIROSE® BEAUTY supports skin barrier repair over time rather than just providing temporary hydration.
Skin Density & Firmness: Rebuilding the Dermal Matrix
Skin density refers to the structural integrity and compactness of the skin and it is primarily influenced by factors such as age, genetics, environmental conditions, and nutrition. As we age, collagen production decreases, and parallelly, the existing collagen becomes fragmented. This effect leads to reduced skin density and elasticity, and consequently the skin becomes thin.
A redensifying effect of AGILIROSE® BEAUTY was measured directly in vivo using the DUB® SkinScanner high frequency echograph.
High-resolution ultrasound systems enable non-invasive skin analysis with very high subcutaneous image quality. The method allows two-dimensional visualization of the skin at the level of the epidermis and dermis, with a penetration of 8 mm, in colors from white to black through yellow, red and green scala where the color is proportional to the skin density. Black is represented by water whereas green are the dense parts like cells and the extracellular matrix (ECM) which is a network consisting of extracellular macromolecules such as collagen, enzymes, glycoproteins that provide structural and biochemical support to surrounding cells.
After 8 weeks, improvements in the skin parameters were observed in a high number of participants, with the skin density being one of the most remarkable ones.
placebo
The latter could be measured as a trend in the first 4 weeks and as a significant effect vs placebo after 8 weeks (Fig. 3 and 4).
Fig. 3: Examples of before and after-effects on skin density
Fig 4: Skin Density values
Wrinkle Reduction & Surface Smoothness: Consumer-Visible Benefits
Skin density is related to the concentration and structural integrity of key components within the dermis. This includes collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid—three essential elements that provide skin with strength, elasticity, and hydration.
An increase in skin density means that the dermis is regaining volume and thickness through better collagen synthesis and extracellular matrix reinforcement. These results were already observed in previous studies with the product.
This dermal thickening contributes directly to improved firmness, as the skin becomes better anchored and more resilient, plumped-up wrinkles, since denser skin can better support surface tension and fill in fine lines from beneath as well as enhanced skin appearance, thanks to the smoothness and even tone that comes with healthier dermal layers.
During the cutometric measurement this finding was verified, showing already after 4 weeks a significantly firmer skin. Once again, the objective measurement was confirmed by the subjective questionnaire of the volunteers (Fig. 5).
User Satisfaction: High Recommendation and Perceived Efficacy
The differences in satisfaction levels between the two groups suggest that Agilirose® Beauty performs significantly better than the placebo. From a consumer standpoint, the product shows strong market potential based on three key takeaways: High recomendation rate, here consumers are likely to promote the product through word-of-mouth; positive overall evaluation that indicates that most users perceive the product as effective, as well as fulfillment of expectations where the product meets the needs of the consumers significantly better than the placebo. (Fig. 6)
Next to the parameters outlined in Fig.5, a 70 % of the volunteers taking AGILIROSE® BEAUTY mentioned that their hair looks stronger whereas 77 % of them confirmed stronger fingernails. (Fig. 6)
The tested product AGILIROSE® BEAUTY was appreciated by the majority of the subjects for its cosmetic efficacy, feeling of the skin, its characteristic, handling, tolerance and properties after 56 days of use (Fig.7).
Conclusion: Scientific Validation and Market Readiness
The cosmetic efficacy evaluation of AGILIROSE® BEAUTY compared to the Placebo reveals a significant improvement in key skincare metrics such as
- Skin firming
- Improved moisturization
- Strengthened skin barrier
- Stronger hair and fingernails
Skin density directly linked to a firmer skin act as the foundation for the visible qualities people associate with youthful, healthy skin. Enhancing it through targeted supplementation for skin improvement can deliver a measurable and visible transformation that consumers both feel and see. In our study we could show that the tested product has a strong scientific and consumer-driven advantage where the placebo group lags behind in every metric, reinforcing that the observed effects are likely due to the active ingredients in AGILIROSE® BEAUTY. In contrast to this, placebo users saw unlikely any additional benefits after the initial phase, meaning their skin kept the level of hydration, likely requiring additional products for improved results.
Users of the tested product should expect continuous improvement with regular use, making it a long-term investment for skin health. Consumers appreciated clear skin-firming, wrinkle reduction, and elasticity enhancement benefits with high satisfaction rates indicating that most users saw noticeable results.
References
1. U. Wollenweber, C. G. Suárez; Blue-Light Reimaged – Delighting Ingredients for Skin Protection – Beyond Personal Care: Nutricosmetics; SOFW-Journal (7/8, 2021) 147, 16-23.
2. B. Walbroel, B. Feistel; A new refined Rose hip extract and its anti-arthritic potential. Zeitschrift für Phytotherapie. (2009) 30, 47.
3. B. Feistel, B. Walbroel; A purified Rose hip extract – effective in a new joint health concept. Zeitschrift für Phytotherapie (2012), 33, 10.
4. C.G..Suarez, C. Bender, B. Feistel, R. Roth-Ehrang; A refined extract of Rosehip modulates skin genes: New evidence for a nutricosmetic. International Congress on Natural Products Research July 2024.
